STAY:
The Gainsborough Hotel; besides being an incredibly indulgent hotel, ideally located, it has the best spa in town, using the tradition healing remedies known to the region.
The Royal Crescent Hotel: the most iconic residence in Bath provides you with this incredible place to stay.
No. 15 Guesthouse: this hotel is on my favourite street in bath and has a charming bar space for a quiet glass or two of some wonderful cocktails.
EAT:
Sotto Sotto: Find me a good Italian and I am yours for the night, Sotto Sotto is beautiful little Italian restaurant in York, opposite the Pulteney Bridge. The food here is divine, my goodness the Branzino here is heavenly, the pasta alla vodka with pulled pork is a different level of spectacular as is the calamari. It feels like it is in a cave, encased in stone walls in an alcove, simply laid out, no fuss, no frills and really good food. You couldn’t ask for more. Make a reservation you do not just want to rock up.
DRINK:
NO. 15 GUESTHOUSE: there is a cosy and divine cocktail bar in this hotel that you simply must visit, the drinks here are wicked, they put you in that joyful haze of ease, it makes you want to stay a little bit longer. If you do not have a train to catch, do yourself a favour and stay.
DO:
Free Walking Tour: if you do one thing whilst in Bath go on a walking tour, the Mayor’s office has a free walking tour every day except Christmas. Walking tours help you get acquainted with a place no other guide can and it is hosted by locals with local knowledge and if they are really good, you learn a thing or two outside the usuals fact… like Beau Nash and Ms Popjoy.
St John The Baptist Courtyard: this is my little-known secret in Bath therefore everybody knows about it but somehow it has remained, a peaceful little space in the midst of a city, behind the Cross Baths. There is a history here, as with everything, a story. Back when Henry VIII simply wanted to marry Anne Boleyn and the Catholic church would not allow him to dissolve his marriage to Catherine I and he broke off from the church to form the Church of England, he went ahead with the dissolution of the monasteries in England because he felt no other institution should eclipse the monarchy in wealth which the church absolutely did. However, he missed this one, which was set up as a charity and alms houses. It is a collection of about one hundred houses that provides independent housing to elderly people of limited means. It is still in operation today and the most recent addition was erected as recently as 2010.
It was founded by the Bishop of Bath, Reginald Fitz Jocelin who at one point was clerk to Thomas Beckett and would at times be the middle man in the feud between Beckett and the King during their more turbulent times. He was also the King’s courier to Rome during this time as well.
The Roman Baths: Go here for a piece of history so pertinent to Bath, but also a unique view of the cathedral. The entire history of Bath stems from its roman baths, and the wealth it drew to this city, therefore you want to go here for the origin story.
The Abbey: if an Abbey is your thing, make sure to visit and you may be lucky to hit a musical recital of some sort. But it is the gift shop here that really sings; make sure to leave with the Mead, especially the Elderflower flavour and when you come home, add some cognac over ice and serve… the treat of a lifetime.
Mr B’s Emporium: buy books here, this delightful bookshop is where I finally found the hardcover of the Songs of Achilles by Madeleine Walker.
Toppings: Another bookshop of plenty including most or all of Jane Austen’s work.
Persephone: I found this bookshop full of incredible books and anecdotes I couldn’t leave without one coming home with me.
Guildhall Market: if you happen to be in town when there is a market on, do go to the Market and support local businesses.
Great Pulteney Street: my favourite boulevard in Bath, wide street flanked by Georgian buildings made with Bath Stone. This road is beautiful and dreamy and you simply wonder what goes on behind the grand doors of each building as you walk past.
Pulteney Bridge: the quintessential views of Bath with the mini viaduct and sun bathers and paddlers enjoying the endless days of sun. There is a private garden where you can enjoy in peace.
THE LUNN BUN
I have finally found what food I would like to come back to the world as, it is the Sally Lunn Bun. Please at every bite… If you do one thing in Bath, just ONE thing, eat the bun at Sally Lunn’s eating house.
Is it a bun? Is it a cake? It is bread? Is it all three? Absolutely. Absolutely. Absolutely. It is criminal to go to Bath without stopping by Sally Lunn’s for this iconic bun. They serve more than the bun but we really go here for the bun. Get some soup if you must, but have the bun. It is delicious. It comes with a range of toppings, my favourite of which is cinnamon butter.
Now, let me tell you about this bun; we don’t really know what it is so we call it part bun, part cake part bread… it is all three. It comes out softly toasted, do you know what it means to have something that is softly and perfectly toasted, THIS IS A MIRACLE in our lifetime. It is soft in the centre and none of that dry crusty edge that can tear one’s gums. This is immediately edible. This cinnamon butter is righteous! It also comes with a slice of orange which you should squeeze on the bun… you will go to heaven.
Another thing of pure beauty is the Elizabeth sponge, which is a homage to Queen Elizabeth I who was famous for her sweet tooth. This is a lavender sponge, that sandwiches jam and rose buttercream. It is as divine as it sounds. Heavenly.
So there you have it, go forth and explore Bath Spa.