We have the messiest winter Olympics going on at the moment from thieves to cheats, they are all running amuck on ice and goodness know what will be left of it by the time the last snowflake has fallen. But no matter, it is in Milan and it is odd that Milan should be the short stop to any trip, considering this is Milan, but it can be. Milan is a city much like Rome, big and busy, but unlike Rome un-hallowed and unencumbered by the ever-looming presence of St Peter… yes, yes, Rome, the Vatican, littlest country and all that but stay with me here. In Milan, I am always short on time therefore the few times I have been there is always a whistle stop and the last time I was there, it was to see the entire works of Frida Kahlo. It was exquisite but the rain meant my time here was limited to the Duomo and Galeria, exhibition and a lovely lunch.
So, what does one do when they have rolled into Milan for the day to avoid the peak crowds of the winter Olympics? Well, come away with me why don’t you…
THE MUDEC:
The Mudec museum in Milan is one of such places that you ought to take the time to visit, its exhibitions are fantastic it is a well-appointed space in an old factory with enough room given to art works to be bombastic on impact. It gives atmosphere and narrative to any piece and has a roaster of some impressive exhibitions; Basquiat, Banksy, Lichtenstein, Frida Kahlo… The industrial complex was reworked by David Chipperfield into a space of hard edges that exhibitions add warmth, to.
THE DUOMO:
Did you go to Milan if you did not stop by the Duomo? No, you did not because to come to Milan and not see the Duomo feels sacrilegious therefore see the building in and out and stand in the wonder of what architects who dream up such spaces.
The roof, the roof, you simply MUST climb up the roof to be awed by the structure itself up-close. It is grand and glorious and right next door to the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle II which is…quite the plan because it will never be short of visitors.
Inside like many churches is quite simple and still worth a few minutes to sit in silence.
SHOP:
I am a sucker for stationery, and you should be too; F Pettinaroli on Via Brera is one to add to your list when you are in Milan, because we could do with a little more stationery in our lives do not contradict me please. A part of Milanese history, they have been at it since 1881 so it’s safe to say they know a thing or two about fine writing goods.
Flea Market:
When should you go to Milan, on a Sunday, when particularly? The last Sunday of the month because the grand canal, Naviglio Grande Milan’s oldest canal is transformed into a sea of flea market stalls selling vintage, antiques, home wares, fashion… the entire lot. It is also the perfect place to people watch and enjoy some of Italy’s finest delicacies.
WINDOW SHOP:
One of the things I enjoy doing in Milan especially during the holidays is to window shop, quite literally, take in the window displays and merchandising over the holidays. Easter is easily my favourite because they go all out but Christmas is a good time to be mesmerised.
SBAGLIATO ANYONE?
I’ve been fascinated to see people go nuts for the Sbagliato which for some reason or other has gained some prominence. I do not care to delve into the reason why, I’m sure someone somewhere thought it was a new creation. Newsflash: it is not. My first visit to Bar Basso in Milan circa eight years ago, it was a staple on the menu and complete with a history of it. So, when in Milan, stop by Bar Basso for the home of the Sbagliato. And truly, there is no substitute for the original… none at all.
But if you find yourself in Monteverdi, indulge in one because it is also quite lovely here. Speaking of Monteverdi, the guide is here.