BA has a sale going at the moment and my favourite thing to do is to plan my year’s travel during the sale and whittle it down to two or three if I am extra rebellious. In the winter months I have two options; Marrakech or Venice; there something ever so wildly beautiful about going to Venice in the winter, it is so ante, the crowds are not there, the air is chilly, the canal almost quiet, and you hear the natural tonality of the city sip through. The dialects, the hum, the daily grind, and the movement… you see it all more clearly hear it ever so sharply and feel is so keenly. I write all about a winter in Venice in my Substack here; subscribe if you don’t already between the blog and the newsletter we are down for a really good time.
With Morocco, it’s all the senses that come alive, rain or shine, winter or autumn Marrakech is inviting to her visitors, but her climate suits a winter temperament for travel; she is warm and, at any time of the day, full of people and life. This guide is a short-short stop for a long weekend in Marrakech for the winter, possibly my tenth trip in so many years, this time with a battalion of family and friends which is always how one ought to see Marrakech. It was divine.
STAY:
On the outskirts of Marrakech, much as I love Marrakech, I love even more staying away from the hub of it whenever I visit. Marrakech is BUSY, push and pull at a constant regardless of the time of day. Snake charmers, traders, tea makers, spice merchants, coffee connoisseurs, fruit sellers, art, life culture… all concentrated in one place that is both big on life and bigger on the welcome she rolls out to her visitors. It is a lot hence staying on the outskirts is one I highly recommend if you are spending the whole time in Marrakech. If not and you are breaking it up and heading out to the seaside then a couple nights in the heart of the city in a riad is always a good option. But for the purposes of a short weekend, we are going to focus on Marrakech:
On my last visit to Marrakech, we stayed at Villa Safiya which is about a half hour drive from Marrakech, and it was perfect. The villa comes with housekeeping, on ground security and a chef that will also make dinner for you, at a nominal feel. Each room has its own media centre, and it also has a rooftop cinema, a wonderful pool we spent most hot days in, a basketball court, a lovely garden and a few other things to keep guests, adult and children alike, entertained. A perfect sized kitchen and a dining area big enough for ten, it also has a barbecue for those warm autumnal evenings so you can dine indoor or outdoor. I would stay here again and again and again; it was so perfect.
Another option is to the stay at The Oberoi, a stunning hotel, above and beyond gorgeous. It was on our way to Villa Safiya about 4 minutes’ drive.
EAT
Since we stayed at the villa, we had a chef prepare meals for us or we dug in and whipped something up. But if you have to eat out here are my two really good options in Marrakech
Naranj: the octopus here will make you want to dive into the sea, catch and grill an octopus it’s so good and perfect for large groups.
Al Fassia: both a riad and two restaurants, it is exquisite here. You can also do a hammam here as well.
Farmers: an excellent lunch spot.
La Trattoria: I know, I know, but is it really me if I do not find an Italian or a cheap Chinese wherever I go? But yes, this is a lovely place to dine.
Sahbi-Sahbi; I haven’t been here, but it is always recommended by friends who have; inspired by women who share recipes down from generations. What is not to love? So when you do dine here be sure to let me know how you enjoyed it.
Very well then, more than two.
PLAY:
Day 1: A Magic Dessert experience
Book one of those experiences curated for tourists for we are all tourists and travellers in other lands away from home. Personally, I am not a fan of the camel ride, I don’t enjoy it, so will likely not do it again, once or twice was enough. Once because first time, twice because wanted to see if I really didn’t enjoy it. and I don’t, but it’s an experience one should do once or twice. Also, there is the thing about how humane it is to animals, and I don’t know that having camels line up in preparation for human entertainment which is averse to their own nature is necessarily a good thing. But if you love it, then have at it.
Quad biking: this would typically come as a package deal along with the camel rides, so this is a good one to do.
Dine in the dessert: there will be places where one can dine beneath the stars and watch the crescent moon rise; this literally happened on this trip, and I would guess every trip of this nature. The food here is good the place is lively and if you are lucky there will be a light show in the dessert. Go with it all.
DAY 2: Art in the Medina.
Now the Jemaa el-Fnaa is the heartbeat of Marrakech; it is BUSY 24/7 there isn’t a moment when it is not busy with all sorts, so go with the expectation that you will be in with the crowd, people will try and sell you stuff, you don’t have to buy and you don’t have to be rude when not buying either. You will be charmed by it all. and you will buy all the things, from spices, to art to food, to perfume to bags the works. Stop for freshly squeezed orange juice its really good here.
Art: the Hassan Hajjaj Gallery is in the medina, a bit of a maze to find but when you do, wow will you be rewarded. Having followed his art for a while now you get to be ensconced in his high octane and colourful world. it is beautiful here and you will not leave without buying something, maybe even everything. See the art and hear the stories behind how the pictures came to be. see the crates where Cardi posed for that stunning picture.
Notes on a place:
Staying in the outskirts of Marrakech actually makes you appreciate the city even more, because just as it starts becoming overwhelming, you can leave to the haven of the villa.
In the villa that comes with a cook make sure you enjoy at least one or two local cuisines prepared by a chef who would be local to the place. In that way it is also serving the community.
Haggling is a culture; don’t settle of the first price, a haggle is expected, start at the 50% mark then settle at 65% or 70%. Don’t worry if you do not get it in one stall there will be others that sell the same thing.
Call to Prayer: Morocco is mostly Muslim there will be call to prayer from 0500, it is rather soothing a way to start the day.
Do not shop at Zara, H&M etc, its significantly more expensive
Come home with more than spice: coffee, that would be ground and mixed for you. Its heavenly I tell you.
Buy souvenirs they are the memory to a place
Hammam: this is more than a spa or a scrub it’s a scrub and shine, in the hands of people who know how. Whenever you have the time, and you should make the time, to have a hammam, please with all of what’s holy about this season; DO IT.
Be prepared for the push and pull and stand still of the Medina, you are sharing a little lane, in every sense of the word, with traders, motorbikes, bicycles, and donkeys pulling carts…