As if you needed to be reminded that I am a lover of London, but I feel the need to remind you that I am a lover of London in the most intimate and ridiculous of ways because it is simply the best city in the world; culture, art, history, welcome…
The best time outside of summer in London is advent, not Christmas day itself, I mean Christmas is lovely but during advent it’s as if a magic wand is waved all over us and out comes the lovelier side, for all 31 days of the month.
So, here’s to our day out in London:
The windows: see the Christmas windows and the facades of the boutiques in Mayfair.
Here’s your route: start at Harrods, don’t take the tube, forget about that start at Harrods, then pop on over to Harvey Nics’ this year isn’t much of a window, but it is what it is. Opposite, take in the stunner of a façade that is the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Now you have two options pop down Sloane Street right the way to Sloane Square, taking in the windows and enjoying how the other half lives, traipse through the Kings Road, if it’s still there, stop by the Ralph Lauren grotto in the square. Stop for a coffee in Bun from home by the station, NO, still don’t hop on the tube, it’s nice out here. Pop back down to Sloane Steet right back up to Harvey Nics and walk on all the way to Fortnum & Mason, cut through the Park, Hyde Park there’ll be winter wonderland madness on one side and all of London in her Christmas glory on the other, maybe even an army of horses on patrol. Keep heading through the underpass in Hyde Park to get to the other side. Stop off for a drink at the Wellington Bar of the Intercontinental Hotel for a lovely cocktail; slip of tongue is what I recommend from the menu. If you fancy it, Theo Randall is an excellent restaurant to eat something, it’s really good Italian cuisine here.
Continue to Annabel’s in Berkeley Square which has something of a riff from the Lion, witch and wardrobe going… its certainly fantastical you should most certainly see it. if you are feeling so inclined pop into Hakkasan for a really good Cantonese, the food here is wonderful. Loop your way back out to Green Park, cross the road and walk down the Ritz Hotel Passage, look up and enjoy the brief moment of sheer loveliness, be suspended in the bliss that is Christmas here. Maybe stop and observe the doormen, I love the doormen of London hotels, they are ever so resplendent and nice. Just, really nice. Continue on our wander down Fortnum and Mason, if you have the time stop off by the Royal Academy of Art to see the most incredible exhibition you will ever see this year and for many years to come, Kerry James Marshall, our Histories; a stunning collection of art in one space that brings alive a distinctive slant to our history. This exhibition is everything and then some. Then cross the road to Fortnum and Mason to take in the windows and learn about Queen Victoria’s pudding I guess, this window whilst not my favourite is still quintessentially Fortnum and Mason. On the hour every hour in the evenings of advent, is the chiming of the bells and the clock show when Messrs Fortnum and Mason do their bit and pop out from the clock to greet us all; trust me this is a moment. If you need it, and who doesn’t need one from time to time, and it is still open, head to the most stylish and intimately darling bar in London at Assouline, buy a book, buy several gifts for loved ones, stop a while for coffee or something stronger. I love this place so much. At some point during your wander, there will be a food market in the church yard next door of St James’ Church courtyard which has all the good things so stop by for food if you’d like. Then pop into Hatchards the oldest bookstore in London, for more books duh! Don’t worry about how you are going to carry all these home because the pain point does not soon factor into our thinking, we have a list and are ticking it off whilst doing fun stuff for Christmas. Walk back the way you came stop by the Santa Maria Novella store for some incredible gifts for friends and family, the best home scents, the best candles, I get these when I go to Florence, so you know this is my happy place. Cross the road and head into Old Bond Street.
Now there are two ways to head to Old Bond Street and New Bond Street.
Way 1: head through the jewel of Mayfair that is the Burlington Arcade, I absolutely adore this little slice of London, cocooned with shops, there is an old-time cobbler there, macaroons are here, lovely, distinguished shops Manolo Blahnik, Gagosian which is something akin to being surrounded by all the wonderful things and then there is a gallery upstairs, diamonds watches and baby clothes, and during this time of year, Christmas is all around, it’s my preferred way.
Way 2: simply head past the arcade, look in, step out and head the main way to Old Bond Street. Both ways work one is simply lovelier, but whatever route you take, we will find ourselves in Bond Street, old and new… take your time it is lovely here. There’s also the Royal Arcade on Old Bond street to pop into if you would like to see an arcade but between the two, I prefer Burlington (I’m big on favourites over here), you come out in one of the most divine cobbled street that can lead no only to Old Bond Street but also to Saville Row. Pop by Ralph’s Coffee for, well, coffee of course.
Prada, Louis Vuitton, Tiffany’s, Dior, Ralph Lauren’s fairytale building, the red phone box, the Christmas tree and then opposite we have the grand dame of all; Cartier. Cartier always brings it hard for the holidays and its absolutely magnificently lovely. There will be other people there, don’t be alarmed we are all here to do the same thing. Once you have had your fill of Cartier, do the stores, walk down to New Bond Street, peer in at the windows, go on, lean in a little closer, because the stores really pull out all the stops along this strip. They really do. Now at the end of this, is Oxford street, turn left by Zara and head on to the best in show, Selfridges. This year Selfridges absolutely take it all with these magnificent windows! OMG! My childhood fantasy come to life it’s wonderful. Every single window is wonderful. If you are in luck, you’ll catch the light show. Then head back up towards Liberty, if you can take the side street but its Christmas be in the moment and do the bit. Turn into Regent’s Street and look up at the angels, then make your way to Liberty London, this is such a wonderful window, the Elves workshop and see the elves putting Christmas on, lean closer watch them work and get up to mischief. Stay a while, its lovely here.
Make your way towards Piccadilly Circus, there are more stores and more stories to behold. See the place I consider to be the most divine architectural landscape in London, the curve of Piccadilly as I like to think of it, this curve takes my breath always. Watch of London commune in this curve, buses, taxis, people, shops!
If you would like to have dinner, head to Bardo St James, one of the finest places to dine (yes I am partial, extremely partial to Italian cuisine). If not, loop round back through Jermyn Street and walk back down towards Fortnum’s. Feel free to stop by the windows again just because we can, and then once you have had your fill, head to dinner at the 45 Jermyn Street behind the store; have one of the Monkfish wellington is something of a true delight as is the white truffle toasted cheese sandwich, a posh cheese on toast essentially. Post dinner, post shopping, post everything, hop on a bus or the tube, back home.
Here is a map of the places names in this post and a walking guide to the main events…
Enjoy!