It’s the music; it is drawing me in, together with the clapping of the gathered audience. Not a crowd but a sizeable audience enjoying the free concert. On the steps of the church where a band of mostly seniors play for a joyous audience of dancers in their little circle of friends, family, strangers… an older gentleman twirls his granddaughter onto the make shift dance floor and her papa joins on the other side forming their own circle… Catedral de Barcelona without the grandness and finesse of the Sagrada, but there is something about the snugness at the sides, as it fills out into aspects of the lanes, it stands out amidst the shops and other neighbouring buildings around it. It may not be a grand and glorious as Gaudi’s masterpiece, but it is still a beautiful church; exterior ornately carved, the stone blends in with muted tones, the spire gives a respectful showing in its race to touch the sky, It is welcoming. Warm and welcoming.
The history of the cathedral itself is one as intriguing as the church; The church of the Holy Cross and Santa Eulalia, named after Eulalia, a local girl who faced down death whilst refusing to renounce her catholic faith as demanded by Diocletian the roman emperor. Inside and out, the church is quite the scene, one of charm and atmosphere and the view at the top is pure joy and bliss. But it’s the happenings on the outside this time, it draws and brings people together much as it is with the music on its doorstep, with the friends new and old dancing around in their circles and onlookers enjoying the revelry. Nothing going on elsewhere will take away this little moment of joy.
Barcelona… there is something about Barca that rings true, maybe it’s the looming presence of the nearly complete masterpiece of Gaudi or the proximity to the beach, the wider boulevard of Eixample or the food… something is in the water here and it gets its tentacles into you. It is the location of one my most memorable brunches and most certainly best paella and until recently a rather fancy bottomless brunch.
It is also a love letter From Gaudi…
First things first, the basics and most important because we live in an age when Scotland wants to break up with England and be its own autonomy, therefore it is important, very important to note that Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia and every few years it will cause a rumble in La Rambla so to speak, as it copies its Scottish cousins trying to break away from Spain. Art and culture sips in the fine streets of Barcelona, from Gaudi to Miro, to Picasso, the intricate and elaborate sites and history; it is a haven of culture and gives anywhere and everywhere else a run for its money… I understand why Madrid feels threatened. I know, I know, them’s fighting words but how could it not feel threatened.
The thing about Barcelona that I find most fascinating, is the difference in its quarters; where La Rambla is a bit of a swish quarter, the Gothic quarter has a bit of an edge to it, I hate that word, but it is what most aptly describes it. El Born, Barcelonetta, El Raval, Eixample, Gracia, Sants… all have different vibes, each with its own distinct history and stories, and all add to the rich layer of the city itself, outside of the story of Gaudi.
Barcelona is home to some incredible works of art, Gaudi’s city, everywhere you turn, there is something of his relating to him; his art is as grand as it is soft, emotive, incredibly emotive. My goodness it takes your breath away. In the colours, in the curves, in the scene it is set against, the intricate detail, this is art that I enjoy, art that wears its hearts on his sleeves much like Gaudi did with every building. His faith played a centra role in his work; so much so, none of the buildings in Barcelona he built was higher that the cross of Barcelona which you can see from the back of his home.
Whether ensconced in a bar of a late night or walking by the beach on your way to have the best paella or a heavenly brunch… Barcelona gets the mood just right it is a city that encompasses a lot of things all in one. Home to Gaudi and Miro, an open air and very swish museum along Passaig de Gracia, the mystery of El Born, the history of Barri Gotic, right up to the sophistication of Exiample, and a short day trip from the Black Madonna, that astonishingly beautiful church… Barcelona hits the right notes every single time.