You know what make a good show great? When the elements come together; hair, makeup, styling, etc. and of all the shows I have seen this round of New York Fashion Week, Lela Rose has been most impressive and not least because the hair, by Ted Gibson, and makeup contributed to what was a most darling show. The collection was a play on architecture and texture; lines and curves romanticised with the use of lace and colours. Lace on tweed, khaki played on pretty day dresses giving them a whoosh of cool and an illusion of curves. The evening wear was as you would expect from Rose, a display of romance, billowing fabrics, colour and again fused with architecture with the use of mosaic detailing but a favourite of mine was the mustard column gown with fold and a deep soft peplum that for once did not offence me rather it reminded me of an hibiscus flower in bloom. Beautiful.
Another favourite collection of mine, DVF served up an enjoyable show right the way through, from the smiling models to the beautiful clothes and of course Naomi Campbell closing out the show. No one struts like Naomi and no one ever will. As the designer called it, this was an oasis of fun and joie de vivre in that DVF signature. Colours popped along side prints; cobalt blue, oranges, especially lovely was the orange desert motif and graduated blue skirt and pussy bow blouse as seen on Jourdan Dunn, a marriage of unlikely colours that blended so well together, metallics zinged along side monochrome; the gold shift mini with pockets had my jaw dropping to the floor as did the the little black and white zip through dress as seen on Joan Smalls. Long line safari jacket and pant suits that would sell right with the ladies who vacation on the French Riviera and moo-moos, yes moo-moos. There were prints and a beautiful mix of pastel colours with that rustic safari tone, along side block colours. In the midst of what will be a long week, month ahead, this will be the perfect respite etched in our memories. I’ll have two of what Diane is having please and I’ll see you at the disco.
This was the classiest act among class acts. Ralph Rucci showed a superiority and evolution that is evident of the brand’s change in tide, sports wear was doused with slick sophistication, evening wear was both daring and divine and overall, it felt youthful but again a more mature kind of youth that is oh so welcoming. Rucci showed his mastery when basics looked and felt more than just basics, the simple cream suit with cut to fit but not skin pants and two long fringes swinging at the side, collarless camel coat over black pants something so simple yet timeless. In the past I’ve felt Rucci to be more precise and a little too literal with his collection, over stating his skill so to speak, but this was a show of confidence, and to an extent a way to prove that he can adapt to the young and still cater for the older, clients wise. It was breathtaking.