NYFW Day 5. Pt 1; Legends, Contemporary Luxe and Jenny Back on The Block,

Another day of goods, another strong showing, there were the resident legends, the newbies and zombies…

Carolina Herrera

The resident legend Madam Herrera. This collection was all about motion inspired by kinetic movements. It was all so fluid and romantic, as always. Pristine and flawless, the thinly striped fly away pieces gave a sort of illusion that only served to enforce this motion Herrera sought to emphasise and the jewel embroidered pieces lent a more rustic feel to the collection so it wasn’t just movement there was detail in that movement and with the help of layers heaviness was avoided. It looked all the more precious if a tad, just a tad bohemian. If that all sounds technical the clothes were anything but there was personable feel to it, romance and subtle sex appeal. Over all this was an elegance that demands poise of the wearer and I am all in for that.

KaufmanFranco

Contemporary luxe with an uptick to sports wear was the feel of KaufmanFranco. It was clean almost clinical but not boring, and that had something to do with model attitude and the styling so props to the stylist. Colour was a rare occurrence here but where we saw colour it inserted the attitude into a collection dominated by more subdued tones. Particularly fine was a halter dress with irregular tiers for a skirt and a simple deep V evening gown that was gold all over. I appreciate the simple approach here because it elevated the looks even more.

Pamella Roland.

As a whole this collection lacked coherence but in the sum of its parts, there were several lovely pieces especially for daywear where Grace Kelly was the winning the influence. The directive was all over the place, Grace Kelly meets Mod, Jenny from the Block, the 50s…you pick. The evening pieces we could easily fit on the red carpet but it was nothing new and this was safe and quite frankly a bit of a snoozefest. The embellishment on the day pieces worked better than they did with evening wear and she fared better when channelling the simple elegance of Grace, a curve scheming dress in cool colour block and an embellished side panel, exaggerated hem blouse with wide leg pants and the 50s silhouettes but as for Jenny, I don’t know what she was doing back on the block…